To escape the endless markets and arenas that are mushrooming in this time of year, towards the Northern Karelia, Finland, along the Russian border. This year the winter was coming. Blame global warming? After some snowfall mid-November, the climate has softened, raising fears the worst in people … and tourists. Fortunately, the temperature is back below zero in early December and snow returned.
The ice began to cover the lake Pielinen, veritable inland sea with its 1 200 islands and islets. In general, the lake is completely frozen for Christmas and is covered by ice about half of the year. On foot, ski, snowshoe or ski lift, he must climb to the top of Koli (253 m above the lake and 347 m above sea level) to admire the scenery. A view breathtaking, reportedly inspired Sibelius’s 4th Symphony.
This morning everything is white. The lake began to attract fans of “fishing hole”. Another few days and the Finns will revel in skating or snowmobiling. But now the ice is a little thin. “To play it safe, it is better to wait until January to venture into lakes,” said Sabrina Logeais, guide French emigrant in Finland in the late 1990s and member of the Association Wild Taiga.
However, it’s time for skis or snowshoes and exploring the region. No major difficulties, the hills are low and offer great getaways on the virgin snow.
A sauna for three residents
In this wilderness, some guides offer sleigh rides and trekking along the Russian border. Reserved for more seasoned, they can discover Karelia, the Finnish side. Since the Second World War, the entire eastern part of the region belongs to Russia.
The cottages and cabins offer a break and get warm around a campfire or spend the night warm. One can enjoy some Karjalanpiirakka, so small blocks of rye rice or mashed potatoes and drinking tea with red berries or mulled wine in Kuska, cups carved from birch magnifiers. The time to regain some strength before returning.
The lucky ones and especially the patients may be able to see between the firs few predators. Last year, more than 800 bears, 150 wolves, 130 wolverine (Gulo gulo-) and 900 lynx were counted on the whole territory of Finland. Not forgetting “Rudolph the red nose, reindeer Santa Claus getting ready to leave Lapland, further north, to begin his tour.
It is 15 hours, the sun goes down, it will be time to turn back. In less than an hour, it will be dark and only the reflection of moonlight on the frozen snow illuminate paths. Some courageous push to the lake to test trottineiges. But mostly, it’s time to go, nice and warm, to enjoy the sauna, another Finnish institution. The country has about 1.7 million, a sauna for three people!
All hotels and chalets are equipped with wooden sauna and it is quite commonplace to end the day in a steam bath. An ancient practice for relaxing and purifying. In winter, the more daring will be soaked in cold water or rolling with delight, say some in the snow. For even warmer, a hook by the jacuzzi, before moving to table, will be less risky. On the menu tonight: trout eggs with sour cream, smoked perch, cucumbers marinated in honey, and the inevitable jump momentum.
Far away in the night, we saw the village lights twinkling. As is tradition, all “Suomalainen (Finland) have put a lantern in front of the windows of their house. All buildings, all streets are adorned with decorative chains. In the houses, next to the vodka, cassis liqueur and cranberry, are kept carefully rye flour, cinnamon and ginger, which will serve to prepare the shortbread Christmas.
Image source : http://www.vrmag.org/issue29/SYAMOZERO_FROZEN_LAKE_IN_KARELIA_RUSSIA.html
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